Building the Boxes

The cutting sheet shows the layout for a set of boxes using the example dimensions. When you change the dimensions you will need to figure out a cutting sheet that fits your dimensions. Be sure to allow for the saw kerf when figuring the cutting sheet. On my table saw I used a smooth cutting blade with a kerf of 1/8". I cut the material with the outside facing up so that most all of the chipping was on the inside edges. Also make sure you get the grain layout running the correct direction especially if you are not painting the boxes.

Choose your paint or finishing scheme before you start. You will want to finish the inside surfaces before you close the boxes. Be sure to rough up the gluing edges before gluing if you apply a finish to the inside surfaces. I chose to finish the inside with a clear coat and paint the outside. If you are very sure of your woodworking skills you might want to consider a dovetail or box joint for the edges. This will provide more gluing surface and may provide a stronger joint. The paint scheme I chose is for an Italian/American kitchen.

The cutting sheet shows the layout for a set of boxes using the example dimensions. When you change the dimensions you will need to figure out a cutting sheet that fits your dimensions. Be sure to allow for the saw knerf when figuring the cutting sheet. On my table saw I used a smooth cutting blade with a knerf of 1/8". I cut the material with the outside facing up so that most all of the chipping was on the inside edges. Also make sure you get the grain layout running the correct direction especially if you are not painting the boxes.

Cut all the parts out and do a simple dry fit to make sure you are close.

Next cut the top and front parts so you will have an opening to reach into for the bags. Use a scroll saw, jig saw, or coping saw to make these cuts. The round is a 1" radius curve which I marked out on the top and front parts using a compass and some geometry from way back in the dark ages. I also used a coping saw with a fairly fine toothed blade and made slow progress in making these cuts.

I used a half round file and sandpaper to finish the cut outs. You can also use a Dremel tool with a sanding attachment to help with the finishing of the cuts.

I used a latex wood filler to fill in the voids that showed up in the plywood edges. There were not many but they invariably show up on a visible edge. Dap and Zar make latex wood fillers. I generally use one that is made for the color of wood you are using.

Be sure to roll over each edge and corner since you will be reaching into these boxes and don't want to scrape your fingers on a sharp or jagged edge.

Once your parts are finished to near perfect condition, dry fit them to see what adjustments you need to make. Make sure you know which part goes outside the joint and which goes inside. I used clamps to put the corners together. This worked pretty well for the larger boxes but not for the smaller one. The clamps were too big so I could not get the halves of the box to fit together to see if the fit was good.

In actual assembly only assemble two parts at a time. I began with the back and the top as a pair to assemble clamping each corner and the middle to make sure I got a good tight glue seal. Then the front and the bottom the same way. That is all the corner clamps I have so then I had to wait for the glue to dry. Don't watch it as it will never dry if you are watching it. I used Titebond II glue which says to clamp it for 30 minutes and to not stress the joint for 24 hours. I keep a wet paper towel handy to help with any foaming and drips. It is best to clean up the glue when it is wet rather than wait until it is dry and hard. When you remove the clamps the glue may still be a bit tacky so you can continue to clean up in the corners and under the clamps. You may need to scrape the glue but just do it gently and carefully so you don't break the joint. When you are finished gluing there will be plenty of time for a break and a beer.

Now with those two parts assembled finish the inside surfaces of all the parts and let them dry thoroughly. Check your paint to see how long it takes to dry (not just skin over). It may feel dry but under the skin it is still wet.

Next bring these two parts together to form the box without the ends. Don't forget to rough up the finished surfaces which will be glued so the glue will distribute bet and form a better bond. If you did not wait long enough for the paint to dry you will suffer its wrath at this time. Glue and clamp them and let they dry. Time for another break and a beer.

All that is left is to glue the ends on. When they are dry, clean up the joints and edges with sandpaper or whatever it takes to make them look good. Fill any voids, round over all the edges and corners and finish the box in whatever paint scheme you chose when you started.

Bright colored paints are hard to find and difficult to work with. They don't want to cover well. You can use a primer to help with the coverage issues or just put on multiple coats of the color paint until you get the look you want. Rustoleum makes a Painter's Touch Up line of paints that come in bright colors. I always choose a latex paint so cleanup is easier. I also have found that some paint stores will mix a pint of paint in whatever color you want. Generally these come in only a flat or semi-gloss finish. If you want a gloss finish you can paint the box then put a high-gloss finish over the paint when it is dried completely. I use Benjamin Moore's Stays Clear for my clear finish. It goes on with a blue tinge, dries clear, and cleans up with water.